Adagio Masters Sampler Set Two Review

Adagio Tea's Masters Collection was comprised of two sets, each of which included four sample tins of teas that were chosen for their "exquisite flavor and appearance." From the presentation and copy to the mantra that these teas are "good for multiple infusions," it's clear that this is part of Adagio's ongoing push into the connoisseur tea market. At $29 per set, the prices are competitive, and I have no doubt that many Adagio customers will be thrilled to try the teas from both sets. However, the collection may not live up to the expectations of hardcore tea connoisseurs.

Whereas Adagio's Masters Sampler Set One was comprised of three relatively green oolongs and a green Jasmine Pearl, Masters Sampler Set Two was dedicated to darker tea colors and flavor profiles. Set Two includes four teas: Anhui Keemun black tea, Yunnan Golden Curls black tea, Golden Pu Erh and Wuyi Da Hong Pao. Although the teas are now sold individually rather than in sets, buying and sampling some of them together can serve as a solid introduction to darker connoisseur teas for tea drinkers who are exploring higher end teas, but it is a good fit for serious connoisseurs expecting teas that reinfuse to reveal complex flavor profiles again and again. Overall, I've ranked Set Two at 3.5 stars. In each section below, I've also included ratings for each individual tea in Masters Sampler Set Two.

Adagio's Anhui Keemun is the boldest of the collection. Keemun (or Qimen) black teas are typically known for their tiny, dark leaves and round, chocolaty flavors. Adagio's tiny black leaves smell chocolaty, peppery and plummy. They brew into a deep garnet infusion with rich scents of black plums, dark chocolate and smoldering pine. So far so good, unless you followed Adagio's brewing instructions. Four minutes of steeping in boiling water results in an acrid, astringent mess with a cloying, burnt aftertaste that I wouldn't give one star. Instead, try brewing it at around 200º F for three minutes. The result is a smooth, chocolaty, nutty, oh-so-slightly smoky brew that's a delight to drink. Judged on its own, I'd give it 4 to 4.5 stars. The second infusion is not as full, but it's still fairly complex and enjoyable. Overall, Anhui Keemun warrants 3.5 stars.

Adagio's Yunnan Golden Curls (a.k.a. "Huong Jing Luo") is a relatively uncommon black tea. It's similar to Yunnan Golden Buds, but is shaped into small coils. In my opinion, the leaves smell like caramel, roasted sweet potato and blond woods. (This characterization differs greatly from their description.) Brewed aromas of caramel and firewood hint at remarkably buttery, sweet flavors. Nuances of sweet potato, flowers, tobacco and black pepper add complexity, but the flavor isn't as deep as some Yunnans. On its own, I'd give the first infusion four stars, but the second infusion is so flat and uninteresting, it could only scrape by with 2.5 stars at best, leaving my overall rating for Yunnan Golden Curls at 3.5 stars.

Adagio's Yunnan Pu Erh Gold is from Yunnan, it's made from golden buds and it is aged. The description talks about how this particular puer embodies the character of puer tea in general. There are some really gross puers out there and there are some remarkably deep, nuanced puers out there. This tea is neither of those things.

In part because of the description and in part because of my experience with puer, I expected the flavor to have a lot more depth than it actually did. Instead of rich, dark puer flavors of old growth forest, leather and mushrooms, it has a woodsy, nutty flavor that's a little astringent and a little sour. There's a hint of licorice, a mellow aftertaste and a relatively thin mouthfeel. The second infusion is surprisingly hollow and not really worth drinking. That said, while Yunnan Pu Erh Gold's mellow and mild flavor may not appeal to regular puer drinkers, it's probably a great "introductory puer" for black tea drinkers. Overall, I give it three stars.

Better known in the U.S. as "Big Red Robe Oolong" or simply as "Wuyi Oolong," this tea from Fujian, China, is known for its deep, dark, roasty, woodsy flavor with undertones of barley, ripe fruit and dark honey. Adagio's Wuyi Da Hong Pao gets some of it right -- it's very roasty, it has notes of buckwheat honey, unripe peaches and seaweed, and barley notes emerge during the second infusion -- but it doesn't measure up to the captivating depth of a great Wuyi Da Hong Pao.

Like the other teas in Set Two, it left me wondering it perhaps my tea palate has become too elevated for its own good and I'm no longer able to enjoy anything but super-premium connoisseur teas. Then I remembered that I have no trouble reviewing teabags for what they are and that this line is presenting itself as the kind of tea I prefer to drink. Judging accordingly, I gave it 3.5 stars and brewed myself a cup of Formosa Pouchong from Set One to wash away the lingering "meh" sensation left by Set Two.

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